watery playground

We have covered a bit of ground and seen some beautiful locations since we last wrote. We enjoyed a couple more anchorages on Tahuata Island before heading north to some new spots.

Friday 4/28 09 56.251S,139 06.630W
As we entered Vaitahu, aka Resolution Bay named after one of Captain Cooks ships, we were escorted by magnificent spinner dolphins. We had been keeping our eye out for them but hadn't thought we would see them this soon. A comfortable anchorage, a friendly convenient town and we stayed a day or two longer than we had planned. There is a distinctive Catholic Church set
in the front of town with beautiful stained glass windows, built up with the rocks used as ballast from old ships combined with the wood from the island. Again, a similar service to any found at home only this time it was in Marquesan not French. The other main attraction was the well known tattoo shop visited by Ryan from Capaz who adorned himself with a new piece of artwork.

Monday 5/1 We headed just a few miles north to Ivaiva Bay where the boys enjoyed a bit of playtime on the beach.

Tuesday 5/2, coordinates 09 45.900S,139 08.422W
Back to the island of Hiva Oa. This time we entered a bay on the north side named Hanamenu. It was said to be the childhood home town of a gentleman we met by the name of Ozanne. From the water it looks like a serene black sand beach. We gathered ourselves into the dinghy and made a rush for the shore. In the back of the property was an oasis of a pool surrounded by lush hibiscus plants and trees of all varieties. We found a mini grove of citrus trees and lots of coconuts. The machete Bruce had been carrying around came into good use here. Unfortunately, that machete was of no help against the fierce nono's. Miniscule bugs with a fierce bite. We took a quick dip into the pool and made haste back to the dinghy. We made it out alive but poor
Matthew didn't put his shirt on and had the looks of a spotted leopard for quite a while. Bug spray and lotions had no effect on them. Tristan spotted a black tipped shark swimming in the shallows as we left as well.

Wednesday 5/3 09 21.516S, 140 02.834W
Ua Pou Island - We did one easy overnight passage from Hiva Oa to the island of Ua Pou (pronounced wa poe). We dropped anchor next to our pals on Capaz and met up again with Arctic Fox, another boat that carries a boy on board. That brings our total to 7 boys between 4 boats. Whew. The easy morning quickly got a little more exciting as we got word of an
earthquake that had occurs near the island of Tonga. A tsunami warning was sent out. Unfortunately the warning came in French and there is always a little bit lost in the translation. We were pretty sure that the info stated that we would only see a 10 cm rise in water, so we decided to wait it out. We pulled up a little bit of anchor chain to place us in a bit deeper water. Within 15 mins. There was an all clear and life settled back into regular rhythm. We went ashore at just the wrong time and found out again how to run on island time, even more relaxed than Mexico if that is possible. We were too late for lunch, to early for the check in at the Gendarmerie. They were to be back at 2:00 and by 3:00 they appeared. With a quick smile and jotting down our names we were checked in. As far as the island towns go this one again was impeccably clean, quiet and content. It seemed a bit more laid out grid style like a town you would see at home and much more developed than previous ones. Surrounded by green mountains and striking spires almost continuously hidden in clouds. We spent the next 4
days using the anchorage as our own personal pool. Each boat decked out with it's version of a swing, the kids swung like monkeys from boat to boat to boat. Thursday we celebrated Zack's birthday on Capaz, Friday night the Kelly's on Moorea took on all 7 boys for another movie night.

Saturday the town held an Outrigger Competition. Those are some amazingly strong arms and shoulders. Young and old boys took to the water in their colorful outriggers for some grueling races in one and 4 man competitions. In the afternoon over loud speaker they called all "American Boaters" to come to the shore for volleyball. We eagerly appeared and gleefully shelled out $10 per person to enter 2 teams of three into their competition. Luckily we realized what we were getting into and we were more than happy to lose our money this way. One could be rather begrudged when handing over $60 for 6 t-shirts and a few very hot, sweaty games of volleyball that of course we lost. The announcer did feel obligated to let us know that there
was no prize for 3rd and 4th place. Ya think. We were proud of our efforts and had a great time getting some fun exercise. I am not sure what they think of our skills though. Sunday we rested and provisioned in anticipation of departing for the next island in the chain. The one
provision you can be assured of getting in the French Polynesian Islands are baguettes of bread and the only item that is reasonably priced. The bread is price controlled and very cheap at 40 cents a loaf. You do have to be the early bird though. We have seen their shelves emptied by 7am on busy days.

5/8 Monday 08 54.907S,140 05.976W
Tahiahoe Bay, Nuku Hiva Island.
A short day sail, perfect 12-15 knot winds out the East as we made our way to the next island of Nuku Hiva. One of the larger and more populated destinations in the chain. As we entered the bay we noticed 4 or 5 enormous manta rays feeding in circles. From the surface they looked to be at least 5 to 6 feet wide. Bruce quickly grabbed his goggles and dove in to swim with them while we circled him. He said their mouths looked like they could swallow him whole. We set anchor and head to shore just before dark with the crews of Capaz and Lawur. A bit of walking in the dark and we found a great pizza place. We will get checked into to customs here quickly and get out to the other anchorages to sneak a peak. The island is a bit more famous as it was the island where the "Survivor Marquesas" shows were taped. We will check out the bay and let you know what we think. We have heard that they bay, also known as Daniel's bay, named after the local gentleman who lives there, has never quite been the same since the show took over that year. Such is the price of technology and entertainment.

Until next time,
Lisa and the boys

The Martins on Ohana Kai
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