Ensenada, Mexico

Monday October 31, 2005 LOCATION: Ensenada, Mexico
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 31 57.376N,116 37.376W

We made it. Monday we arrived in the early afternoon and decided to wait until the next day to start the whole customs process with a fresh day ahead of us and a good nights sleep. We had heard that it can be a few hours long process and we wanted to be as prepared as possible. We had made anywhere from 10 - 25 copies of any document we were told might be needed to use to complete the paper work. None of which were needed as it turned out. It had been relayed to us that the process might go something like this. Check in at the Aduana (customs), show proof of all things possible, not have something that they need, i.e the VIN # off the motor of the boat. Go get the rest of the information that you need. Go back and show proof again, go to the bank and pay for all things possible, go back to show proof of payment. Find out that you still don't have a copy of something needed. Find the copy store and make copies. Go back again and show more proof of something. It sounded daunting at the very least. Luckily for us times are a changing.
We met up with the Harbor Master, Roger, who for a mere $30 will kindly hand hold and baby sit you through the entire process. He took 4 different boats worth of crew members over to the one building that houses all the officials you need to meet. They used to be spread about town. Roger swiftly guided us all in the proper directions, assisted in translating, filling out paper work and even made copies for us somewhere when we needed them. He was worth his weight in gold. The two funniest parts of the process came toward the end. First, you line up at a window standing next to what looks exactly light a traffic light containing only green and red lights. Of course, after finishing the appropriate paper work and questioning, "Do you have anything you want to declare?" to which I brilliantly reply "Is there anything you would like me to declare?" Do I sound guilty or what? You then get to push a button on the street light to see if you paseo or not. It is a random check so every so often someone gets red "no paseo" and they then board your vessel and check it out. Luckily we did pass and our guide Roger gave out a tiny cheer. I am relieved especially when we found out we would have had to give the officer a ride out to our boat ourselves. That would make for some interesting small talk. The last event was when we were approached to complete a survey on how they "the government" are doing at improving this whole process. It is given by an independent consultant. He was incredibly polite and fun but we were still surprised when the final questions were "Do you think about offering a bribe?, Do you think they expect a bribe? and Do you think they would take one if you offered a bribe?" We happily answered NO, NO, NO and were on our way. We did suggest bigger signs in English would help the process if you didn't come without an escort but all in all a painless process. While standing in line, I must mention that we were surrounded by folks from Port Orchard, Poulsbo and Hunts Point. Is there no where to hide?
We found some ATM machines, got some lunch, groceries and showers over the next two days, filled out a few more papers in order to leave Ensenada and were on our way. This morning we headed out on what ended up being the busiest boat traffic day we had seen yet. A cruise ship had just docked and off loaded. The crew then began to run an emergency drill and all their life rafts descended into the water. Quite a site. Two large tugs also brought in some barges. A bit of maneuvering and we were in the clear. A quick visit to Isla Todos Santos, two islands off the coast that in the right conditions create some huge waves for the more extreme surfers. We just wanted to be able to say we had been there. Good enough for us.
The last observation would again be the support systems around these cruisers. Since cell phone, television, and most other forms of communication and information start to dwindle once you cross the border, there are these amazing "nets" as they call them. They are each set to occur on specific frequencies and times on both single side band radios and VHF. They span the entire coast and can be as simple as a roll call to see who's out there and afloat, or who needs help. One of them this morning was very local including mostly the two nearest marinas. If is funny when you realize the people talking are each sitting in their boat, most of which are on the same dock and within eyeball distance. They offered all different types off segments including even the most up to date news, weather, happenings at the movie theater or local bar, a mini swap meet of sorts, mail carrier service if you want anything delivered to or from the US (Dan is running up there tomorrow). The list is endless and all volunteer. It is the most genuine and good natured community. All those years of playing the telephone game as a kid come in handy here when you need to help relay the messages when they don't travel as far as needed.
We are all having good time trying out our beginning spanish. The boat is covered in pieces of tape with words and phrases in spanish. We are threatening to have an all spanish day but we fear at this point we may just all sound polite and starve to death. Matthew, Mr. Goodwill ambassador will get the farthest in life with the two simplest words that he loves to hand out to everyone, "Hola Amigo!".
We are off to Puerto Santo Tomas today to find a new anchorage. The charts get less specific as we go south so it means much more diligent watches.
talk to you soon
Lisa and the boys