Cabo San Lucas

Friday December 9, 2005 LOCATION: Cabo San Lucas
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 22 52.916N,109 54.309W

Last Monday we tucked into Bahia Santa Maria with the sunrise. Absolutely beautiful. Although we didn't get to see them up close, just after we anchored out in the ocean we could see what we think were giant grey whales breaching and spy hopping. The size of the splash that we could see from miles away was enormous. We could only imagine what a sight it must have been if we were up close. This anchorage was populated with a good number of Canadian boats. This is just helping to firm up my theory on the migration patterns of cruisers. Let me expand on this. We noticed when we pulled into San Diego that the majority of the population of boats entering the Baja race, that leaves the 1st of November for Mexico, are mostly Californians. Ready to leave their world behind for the much sunnier and warmer destinations of mainland Mexico. Pacific North westerners are so happy by the time they reach the mildly warmer weather of San Diego and shed their fleece are quite content to take their time and ease into the new climate. Bringing up the rear are the Canadian friends who flock in groups it seems and linger a little longer than most. We are all happy to slowly inch our way down the Baja coast and slide into this new found warmth. Again this has just been my observation.
Bahia Santa Maria turned out to be a nice surprise in itself. We ran into "Float On", the 3 kids Danielle, Steve and Garrett, from Canada who had their boat run into earlier. They turned us on to a wonderful hike that crosses through the peaks and valleys of the local point and provides a beautiful sight of blooming cactus and local plants, bee hives, sea shells and a breathtaking view of an equally breathtaking shoreline. On the far side of the point, these dedicated surfers, Bruce included, hiked their boards over hill and dale to catch some nice breaks just before sunset. Once back on the boat you are often greeted by lobster fishermen eager to trade you t-shirts and batteries for their catch. We declined this time as we had our own fish to fry. I can gladly say that mom was triumphant this time and served up some delicious tuna, which much to their surprise everyone enjoyed. Score one for mama.
From Bahia Santa Maria we headed directly to Cabo San Lucas. Knowing that it is a growing vacation destination and cruise line port still did not prepare us for what we saw when we arrived. Rising out of the rocks and cliffs before you even turn the corner into the bay are enormous, beautiful homes, hotels, etc. As you enter the bay, which itself I have to say is not all that big, you are engulfed in a mass of activity in the water. It is a constant swarm of water taxis and glass bottom boats, jet skis with people who have obviously never been on one before, kayakers with a death wish, parasailing boats with parasailers in tow, a few sail boats and then the ever present cruise ships. It wasn't quite overwhelming yet, but certainly exciting and you had to keep your eyes open. The scenery itself is wondrous with large outcrops of rocks, arches and spires.
The water was crystal clear, so as soon as we refueled, dropped off our garbage and anchored in 20 ft. of water, Bruce and Matthew were leaping off the edge of the boat into 75 degree water to swim around. Swimming VERY close to the boat because as I mentioned all that boat traffic around waits for no one and follows no set path or rules. We had set out a bouy to mark our stern anchor and I believe they thought it was a slolom marker. We went ashore, got a lay of the land and quickly met some of our cruising neighbors. "SeaFire" from Blaine, WA, "Alcyon" a beautiful old schooner from Port Townsend, whom we have seen in many anchorages starting in Ensenada but not yet had the chance to meet and "Capaz", from Portland Oregon also with two boys on board.
We filled a Wednesday and Thursday with errands, found Costco and felt like we were home. We attempted to get a few more boat pieces and parts but the prices were much to high. We even splurged to have our laundry done for us. Our nights were filled with sitting on the beach with our new acquaintances, watching the skydivers land on the beach and eating tacos at a local palapa. Couldn't ask for more. It was really the first time in a long time that we felt as though we were on a vacation. At least a quick break anyway. The beaches were very steep to skim boarding was difficult but playing in the waves was great. The sand itself was very different from anything we had seen yet. A pristine yellow, coarse sand that follows you everywhere but pretty easy to clean up as you dry so quickly.
We saved Friday morning for snorkeling with the boys. Matthew could hardly wait for the dinghy to stop moving before he donned his gear and leapt overboard. It was so much fun to hear his squeals of joy and laughter through his snorkel as he discovered all the fish below him. Bruce and Tristan were close behind and yelling back to me all of their discoveries. Before I could get my own gear on and jump in their squeals of joy turned a little more serious as they all hopped back into the dinghy realizing that they were getting tiny zaps from something we discovered to be masses of little jellyfish. We moved the dinghy around to a spot with a bit clearer water and tried again. We found needle fish(garfish), "Gill" from Nemo a Moorish Idol, some parrot fish, a puffer fish and hosts of others we have yet learned to identify. We cannot wait for the next chance to snorkel again in calmer waters.
Today, Saturday, we are departing Cabo San Lucas and beginning the journey around to the Sea of Cortez. We will likely make a few stops along the way in Los Palmillas and Los Frailles before making a big leap up to La Paz and it's neighboring islands. Alcyon will be there the same time and need some more players for an ongoing beach volleyball game.
We have gotten our advent chain put together to help count down the days to Christmas. We play Christmas music constantly but the warm water and constant sunshine make it a little hard to buy. On each chain link we have written one word that reminds us of Christmas and we try to find an activity that day to correlate. Such activities will include cutting snowflakes, making Christmas cookies or creating our own stockings. We know Santa loves cruisers too. Once we anchor in La Paz we may hunt for a Christmas tree but until then we have modified it to an origami tree, angels, snowman, santa and sleigh including reindeer.

until next time,
love lisa and the boys