Fakarava Atoll

6/9/06 Fakarava Atoll, Passe Tumakohua (Southern Pass)
coordinates 16 30.280S,145 27.340W

We got an early start to head out the pass departing from Tahanea to journey toward Fakarava. A 45 - 50 mile leg would take us the majority of the day and again we needed to time it just right in order to enter the pass at the next atoll according to the tides, currents and sunset time. We departed early enough and were excited to have enough wind to have a great sail there. Exiting the pass was as exciting as entering it with tall and confused seas at the entrance due to the currents, but once past that we were on our way. 25 knot easterly winds, we should be there in no time.
The majority of the trip was uneventful but as all good stories go, things change quickly. Bruce had been dragging a fishing line all day and we noted a big flock of birds up ahead. Along with the fairly high seas we were having that means a good chance for fish. One strike got away but we held on to our lure, the second strike was a doozie. We can officially say we are not skunked anymore. It took a lot of effort but Bruce managed to reel what we later measured to be a 51" Dorado or Mahi Mahi. Yeah great hunterer and gatherer, we will all eat well tonight. It did end up coming at a price though.

Right before we landed the big boy, the winds had started to pick up so having been running wing on wing we rolled up the head sail but left up the whisker pole since the fish struck at that moment. To make a long and unhappy story short, by the time the dust settled the jib had taken a funny wrap and wouldn't roll up easily. Somewhere in our attempts to unwrap it we
blew out the top of our head sail and could at that point see at least one entire tear in a seam from side to side. Later inspection showed tears in the fabric itself and damage to the shanks that hold it to the mast. So much for a stitch in time as I had just done some repair work by hand not a few days before. The jib itself was showing a little wear on the binding of its edge as well so we eventually got all the canvas put away and limped on toward the anchorage.

Feeling a bit beat up and disappointed in ourselves for not being quite prepared for that moment as we should have been, we readied ourselves for the entrance to the next pass. The rain stopped long enough for us to have a clear shot at the entrance but the currents stay swift around here. This entrance nearly gave us ulcers at first. The charts don't always correspond
with the way things look in front of you and we found ourselves not knowing which way to go. Once inside the pass, though wide enough we found nothing but shallow reefs and rocks to the left, markers dead ahead, and what looked like a river running towards us to the right with fish pens in the middle of it. None of these looked like acceptable choices. We opted for deep and
congested over shallow and rocky and it panned out. Once inside it was a straight shot and easy anchoring even considering the 25-35 knot winds that would not let up. Capaz and Moorea came in right behind us and though not a very protected anchorage we were snug for the night. Capaz graciously let us come aboard their boat to carve up our mighty beast on their back deck. They soothed our frayed nerves and wounded prides with a few beverages. There was so much meat on that fish that all three boats will be chewing on it for a while.

As far as the sails and repairs go we do have the supplies on board to fix them, but I am not sure if I could repair it well enough to last us all the way to New Zealand. Rather than do the job twice we think we will end up cutting our time a little bit short in the Tuamotus and head for Tahiti and the Society Islands sooner as we know there are a few sail shops there.
Until next time,
Lisa and the boys