The other side of Palmerston

Thursday August 24 coordinates 19 02.429S,169 12.683W
We are currently under way to the island of Niue and had some time write about the friendlier and fun side of Palmerston Island.
We were greeted by them on the radio before we even reached the anchorage. They knew we were coming as we were carrying some supplies for them but always nice to get an early morning greeting from shore. Edward Marsters, our host greeted us in his boat and helped point out the mooring we were to use. By that afternoon we were all ashore and after quick introductions we were off on the most interesting of island tours provided by the local children. 72 people live on Palmerston island within the atoll chain, 24 of which are children. Each a descendant of William Marsters and one of his 3 Penrhyn wives. They can, with blinding speed, recite their lineage back. We were lost after "my mothers father...". We quickly covered the town and saw the school, met the principal/teacher Yvonne, whose husband Tere we had met back in Rarotonga. We saw all the grave sites from William Marsters on down, the local Palmerston Yacht Club built for us "yachties" complete with laundry facilities and showers. We toured their freezers section compliments of Bill. They joke that there are more freezers per capita here than any where else in the world. Fishing is their source of income. The supply ship reliably makes it rounds to the island maybe, possibly every month or so, depending on the weather as well as many other factors we are sure. So you can see where having great freezers can come in handy keeping the fish ready for them until then. The island generator only runs 12 hours a day in two 6 hour cycles so keeping things frozen is challenging at best, even with their flash/burst freezer. Bill proudly open the doors to show us the amazing display of their catches. Some of the largest parrot fish we have ever seen for starters and the numbers abound. The children showed us the administration building, a very professional sight in the middle of a remote paradise isle. They were quickly climbing trees and dropping coconuts and even more quickly demonstrating their abilities to whack them open on re bar or machetes as early as age 5. We learned more about coconuts in 4 minutes with them than 4 months in the south pacific all together. We finally had the opportunity to taste the innards of a coconut after it has moved into it's "pod" stage in which the inside of the coconut gets a spongy type material that is edible. Not something we would partake of on a regular basis but edible. A few moments more with them and we had learned the art of their style of marbles and spear throwing. {hint: stay out of the way}

The island itself is not very large and well covered with palm trees. Though the wind was blowing like stink, as we like to say, on the outside there was no hint of it within the confines of this well protected little village. The walk ways between each home or building are sandy and tree lined and interestingly enough lit with 6 street lights. It is tough to weigh that at times with the fact that they could use more water cisterns and a new school building as well. Or more basic medical supplies such as a blood pressure cuff large enough to fit everyone. They have no way at the moment to get larger boats into the lagoon making it difficult to get supplies. The supply ships have to anchor out like the rest of us and then off load onto the local dinghy's. Progress is a double edged sword though and any improvements to allow more traffic would surely do damage to their amazing environment and remove much of their isolated charm.

Abby from Sea Kardinal and our boys had a great time one day visiting the school for their PE class. Participating in great relay games the comraderie built quickly. Swapping games of marbles or rides on their one swing strung from the highest tree branch. A one room classroom at the moment and also home to Principal/teacher Yvonne and her family, looks much like any bright and budding place of learning at home. The walls are adorned with fun creativity including a beautiful quilt depicting their island and town. The desks are all aligned neatly and the children smiling and giggling. Though they do not yet have internet access on the island they do have a web site at www.palmerstonisland.com. Check it out and let us know what you find. They are always looking for feedback and support and we would love to see them get it.

We did have the opportunity to share a couple of meals Edwards family and relatives. A special day as they had just killed their largest pig. We also spent some more time with another couple visiting from Canada that had come over from Rarotonga with our pals the Kelly's on s/v Moorea. An extra special event was the birth of the newest island member baby boy Marsters. No name yet. Mom was doing great and graciously let us in to congratulate her and welcome her newest little one to the world, thus bringing the island population to a rousing 73. Our final hours there were spent making chocolate chip cookies with Jenny from s/v Sea Kardinal and Shirley Marsters, the kids got to take turns riding bikes, watching the littlest pigs get their "stones" cut off so that they would grow bigger and fatter rather than have more offspring, taking one last walk around the beach chasing hermit crabs, and picking our handfuls of wild basil that grows there. They just shake their heads at us as we walk off with their "weeds".

As with any other "family" there are certainly the usual squabbles and communication issues but we never felt their impact and we found everyone in Palmerston to be so amazingly warm and genuine. They were filled with a great sense of humor and generosity. It wasn't the stay we were anticipating certainly due to the weather but an adventure none the less and left us wanting for more. We hope to return someday and share in their world a bit more.
until next time,
Lisa and the boys