Action de Gracias

Thursday November 24, 2005 LOCATION: Asuncion Bay, Baja California
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 27 07.738N,114 17.478W

Action de Gracias - As best we can tell that means the action of giving thanks or Happy Thanksgiving to you all and we hope this finds you all well and surrounded by family during this special time. We are well and currently nestled in Asuncion Bay. We have been continuing to hop from bahia to bahia y punta to punta, down the coast. We spent a few extra days in Bahia de Santa Rosalillita where we met some great people. A young couple Erik and Sarah, who are originally from Washington, traveling Mexico by van and surfing along the way. And a man, Ricard, from Spain who is traveling through Mexico by himself on his mountain bike. It was fun to swap stories of our travels each with a slightly different means of transportation and view of the trip. You can follow their journeys on www.vanontherun.com and www.bikemexico.blogspot.com. We hope to hook up with them again down the road.
While in Rosalillita we all got some more practice surfing on some really nice and long waves. Once your up (operative word being "up" for me) you could ride them forever. The boys also got to break in their new skim boards and are hooked. The bay itself is wrapped around in wonderful warm sand dunes that we would travel over like roadrunners(another cute bird you get to see a lot down here). Other fun finds were another new sea shell to us called turbans, which we hear are quite a yummy thing to eat and an entire whale skeleton with some leathery skin all dried out. Fascinating stuff.
Next stop was Isla Cedros. A nice island just north of the tip of Punta Eugenia and begins the central portion of Baja California. The island though it feels rather removed is the 3rd largest shipping port in Mexico. From miles away you can see giant mountains of salt that they load and export from lagoons such as Scammons lagoon on the Baja. One quick night and we were on our way to Bahia de Tortugas or Bay of Turtles. Nope, no turtles there. We had heard it is the first major stop and anchorage along the Baja coast for re-provisioning and refueling. They have quite the system going there. For a nice price, of course, they come out to your boat in their "pangas", fiberglass dinghies that EVERYONE owns for fishing, and transportation. The locals gladly take your garbage to shore for you and eventually, Jorge comes to visit you and deliver diesel and fuel. The guide books even mention by him name, although it must have been a busy day. We were told he would be the first person to meet you on your boat and seeing as how we were the last of boats that day to pull in and anchor poor Jorge didn't come for hours and yet made extra trips in the dark to bring us back our jerry cans full. We were very grateful for the help and an extra Tecate (cerveza) and friendly attempts with the language go far.
Currently we are in a wonderful place called Asuncion Bay. The best kept secret on the entire Baja Coast as far as I am concerned. It gets my vote so far as the best gem we have found yet. As with all great finds it is the people that make the experience real. An hour before you enter the bay you are called up on the radio by Shari. She lives on the point with a sweeping 360 degree view of the Pacific Ocean and can see you coming. Her back yard includes a natural jetty that provides a sheltered pool to play in no matter how high the tide or fierce the waves may be, complete with a bufadore (or a blow hole). The boys are still trying to figure out how they can get this in their back yard at home. She and her family, husband Juan and daughter Sirena welcomes you into her town and her home before you even drop anchor. We took them up on their hospitality and within five minutes of hitting the beach you meet the neighbors, have access to every amenity you need and we were treated to fresh squeezed orange juice, lessons in making tortillas and feasting.
Their house is a revolving door of travelers and they even run a B&B of sorts that includes immersion courses in the Mexican culture and learning to speak spanish. Shari graciously acts as the good will ambassador of Asuncion and shuttled us around to the store or to see the sights. Being fluently bilingual she has been teaching us every bit of the local lingo we can squeeze into our terribly gringo brains. They have horses to ride and will even take you to see a local valley where you can hunt for your own petrified shark teeth and other finds.
The town has an amazing Catholic church adorned with breathtaking stained glass windows throughout. Each depicting a scene from the bible in the lower half and a scene from the environment be it ocean or desert life on the top half. Even the copula is shaped like a lighthouse and the door hinges like whales. Not to mention the fresh pink and coral colored marble that wraps every pillar and the floors. Peaceful. We hope to attend a mass and share in their celebration before we go.
A few more travelers trickled in after us from Turtle Bay as well, and Juan and Shari offered up her home to us all to celebrate Thanksgiving. Each person contributed a goodie or two but the best part of the celebration was the offerings of local flavor. We feasted on BBQ yellow fin tuna, lobster(langosta) filled tamales and my new favorite deep fried lobster in the half shell of sorts compliments of Rosa and her husband Isidro. Lobster and Crab fishing is one of the major sources of income and industry here. Each days catch is contributed to a local co-op and sold from there. The work and rewards are shared.
Bruce was able to sneak in a few mornings of surfing with some of Shari's friends Seth and Ryan. They boys enjoyed snorkeling around the boat and chasing bait fish. When the sea lions go by the water boils with the bait fish as they try to escape. We are holding out here for another day or two as we let the brunt of a gale storm go by and we get to part take of a little more of the culture and friendship before we depart on Sunday for Abreojos (open your eyes).
Shari in her past life was a whale researcher for 15 years, and now a self motivated anthropologist and gold miner. Juan her husband builds the rock walls for homes around town, lobster fisherman and musician. If you are ever in this neck of the woods or are looking for an amazing location for some Spanish immersion encounters on the Baja Beach contact them at whales@intecnet.com.mx or call them at 001-52-615-160-0289. I will let you know as soon as their web page is up and running. (hint hint Shari) It is going to be tough to leave this anchorage behind but we are so blessed to have had the opportunity to share this corner of their world.
until next time, nos vemos
love lisa and the boys

Baja California Norte

Wednesday November 16, 2005 LOCATION: Bahia Blanca, Baja California Norte
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 29 06.240N,114 41.239W
We have been slowly and diligently making our way down the Baja Coastline. It has been relatively quiet and peaceful. Each day has brought a new anchorage for us to see and taken us a little further south. Each anchorage with it's own unique coastline and feel. There has been a fishing village nestled in nearly everyone. Here is a list of the locations we have stayed in thus far. Puerto Santo Tomas, Bahia de Collett, San Quintin, Punta Baja, San Carlos and tonight we will be in Bahia Blanca. I think it has been about 5 or so days since we have actually touch land and I have to say we are all doing well. Day three we got a little stir crazy but a ride in the dinghy to go explore always helps. Bahia de Collet has dramatic 300 foot cliff walls that line the bay. A big notch cut in the middle brings some heavy winds down through it in the evening. In San Quintin we were anchored beside our friends on Bold Spirit and enjoyed a nice night out to dinner and games on their boat. It was great fun and felt like such a treat. While we were exploring that bay in the dinghy as well we saw a grey colored whale (rather small) heading in to feed we imagine. Yesterday we anchored in Bahia San Carlos next to Punta San Carlos. You see the pattern here. Everywhere there is a "punta", point just below it is a "bahia" or bay for us to anchor in. We took our dinghy ride and found some potential waves for Bruce to ride. Yeah!!! It had been a while since we had gotten him wet and he needed it.
What we noted the most about this location was that we were finally starting to feel some warmth. Up to this point we had been experiencing fairly cool and moist weather, like a foggy Washington day. This was significantly dryer and comfortable. We went to bed early in anticipation of an early departure the next morning and by 10:30 some strong offshore winds kicked up over the bluffs and out onto the water. It turned us and the two other neighboring boats around on our anchors and whipped away at 25 - 35 knots all night and on until 10:30 this morning. You are never in any danger but you sure don't get any sleep. We set a radar alarm that would let us know if we had come loose of our anchor and were drifting into anyone or anything and likewise if anyone was heading for us. By 9:00 am we decided to pull up anchor and brave the sea further out, hoping that these would die off as the day warmed up and lessen the further off shore we went. Luckily it panned out and we enjoyed a nice morning sail. Wind is fascinating to me. Each morning at 6:00 am we listen ever so diligently through squawk and squelch for the weather report and try to picture the highs and lows scattered around the globe. Where are they now and how will they affect me? Where am I located and what land mass or water mass will come into play? ...As quickly as this wind had started at 10:30 that morning it died down to less than 10 knots and changed direction. Who knows.
We did put the fishing line back in the water today. The word around the Pacific Ocean I hear is that fish do not fear Ohana Kai. We haven't had a nibble - until today. Everyone had their turn at reeling in a decent sized Black Skipjack. We didn't keep any to eat yet, we were just so happy to break our fish less curse. We will have to check with Bold Spirit yet to see if they had any luck. They were fish less as well. And as Bruce says, he who has the first fish, has the biggest fish if even for a moment.
As we entered the bay to anchor for the night tonight, the wind picked back up again and it got dark quickly. The full moon rose just in front of us ever so majestically. We were escorted by what looked like a hundred spry dolphins feeding with a frenzy. Amazing.
hope you are all well,
talk to you soon
Lisa and the boys

Ensenada, Mexico

Monday October 31, 2005 LOCATION: Ensenada, Mexico
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 31 57.376N,116 37.376W

We made it. Monday we arrived in the early afternoon and decided to wait until the next day to start the whole customs process with a fresh day ahead of us and a good nights sleep. We had heard that it can be a few hours long process and we wanted to be as prepared as possible. We had made anywhere from 10 - 25 copies of any document we were told might be needed to use to complete the paper work. None of which were needed as it turned out. It had been relayed to us that the process might go something like this. Check in at the Aduana (customs), show proof of all things possible, not have something that they need, i.e the VIN # off the motor of the boat. Go get the rest of the information that you need. Go back and show proof again, go to the bank and pay for all things possible, go back to show proof of payment. Find out that you still don't have a copy of something needed. Find the copy store and make copies. Go back again and show more proof of something. It sounded daunting at the very least. Luckily for us times are a changing.
We met up with the Harbor Master, Roger, who for a mere $30 will kindly hand hold and baby sit you through the entire process. He took 4 different boats worth of crew members over to the one building that houses all the officials you need to meet. They used to be spread about town. Roger swiftly guided us all in the proper directions, assisted in translating, filling out paper work and even made copies for us somewhere when we needed them. He was worth his weight in gold. The two funniest parts of the process came toward the end. First, you line up at a window standing next to what looks exactly light a traffic light containing only green and red lights. Of course, after finishing the appropriate paper work and questioning, "Do you have anything you want to declare?" to which I brilliantly reply "Is there anything you would like me to declare?" Do I sound guilty or what? You then get to push a button on the street light to see if you paseo or not. It is a random check so every so often someone gets red "no paseo" and they then board your vessel and check it out. Luckily we did pass and our guide Roger gave out a tiny cheer. I am relieved especially when we found out we would have had to give the officer a ride out to our boat ourselves. That would make for some interesting small talk. The last event was when we were approached to complete a survey on how they "the government" are doing at improving this whole process. It is given by an independent consultant. He was incredibly polite and fun but we were still surprised when the final questions were "Do you think about offering a bribe?, Do you think they expect a bribe? and Do you think they would take one if you offered a bribe?" We happily answered NO, NO, NO and were on our way. We did suggest bigger signs in English would help the process if you didn't come without an escort but all in all a painless process. While standing in line, I must mention that we were surrounded by folks from Port Orchard, Poulsbo and Hunts Point. Is there no where to hide?
We found some ATM machines, got some lunch, groceries and showers over the next two days, filled out a few more papers in order to leave Ensenada and were on our way. This morning we headed out on what ended up being the busiest boat traffic day we had seen yet. A cruise ship had just docked and off loaded. The crew then began to run an emergency drill and all their life rafts descended into the water. Quite a site. Two large tugs also brought in some barges. A bit of maneuvering and we were in the clear. A quick visit to Isla Todos Santos, two islands off the coast that in the right conditions create some huge waves for the more extreme surfers. We just wanted to be able to say we had been there. Good enough for us.
The last observation would again be the support systems around these cruisers. Since cell phone, television, and most other forms of communication and information start to dwindle once you cross the border, there are these amazing "nets" as they call them. They are each set to occur on specific frequencies and times on both single side band radios and VHF. They span the entire coast and can be as simple as a roll call to see who's out there and afloat, or who needs help. One of them this morning was very local including mostly the two nearest marinas. If is funny when you realize the people talking are each sitting in their boat, most of which are on the same dock and within eyeball distance. They offered all different types off segments including even the most up to date news, weather, happenings at the movie theater or local bar, a mini swap meet of sorts, mail carrier service if you want anything delivered to or from the US (Dan is running up there tomorrow). The list is endless and all volunteer. It is the most genuine and good natured community. All those years of playing the telephone game as a kid come in handy here when you need to help relay the messages when they don't travel as far as needed.
We are all having good time trying out our beginning spanish. The boat is covered in pieces of tape with words and phrases in spanish. We are threatening to have an all spanish day but we fear at this point we may just all sound polite and starve to death. Matthew, Mr. Goodwill ambassador will get the farthest in life with the two simplest words that he loves to hand out to everyone, "Hola Amigo!".
We are off to Puerto Santo Tomas today to find a new anchorage. The charts get less specific as we go south so it means much more diligent watches.
talk to you soon
Lisa and the boys

San Diego coordinates

Monday October 31, 2005 LOCATION: Shelter Island, San Diego GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 32 42.588N,117 14.063W
After that last great message went out I realized I had not yet changed the coordinates. So above are the revised ones. It has been an amazing stay here in San Diego. It is official. Today we are leaving the dock. Bruce just started the motor and we are untying the lines as we speak. It is 4 am and we have a good 10 - 12 hour day ahead of us to reach Ensenada. It is quite a site to see this city in the dark all lite up like Christmas. The channel markers of red, green and white line the path we must take to head back out to sea. You feel a bit like an airline pilot lined up on the runway. I will write soon with our coordinates from our next stop in

San Diego

Monday October 31, 2005 LOCATION: Shelter Island, San Diego GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 33 27.515N,117 41.438W
San Diego, our last stop before Mexico. We arrived at the Harbor Office early last Tuesday morning hoping to find a slip. We came knowing that the chances were slim as they are all taken by the 150 other boats that were entered in the Baja Haha. A boat race from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas. The last one disappeared a minute before we got on the dock. As always it works out just fine. We were given an anchorage in Glorietta Bay which sits right next too the beautiful Coronado Hotel.
Wednesday we hit the ground running. We rented a car and headed straight for Sea World. We all had a great time but after seeing all the wild life in Monterey Bay Aquarium and the excitement of Disneyland it just wasn't the same. I would like to say that we had really been enjoying the rest of the sights of San Diego since then but it has been all work. We know the freeways better than I expected.
We have begun the learn the steps of an important dance around here that they appropriately name the paper work cha cha. We each had a few immunizations left to take care of. We needed fishing licenses for the boat, the dinghy and each person on board. We began the paper work for our Visa's once we enter Mexico. We have made oodles of copies of a forms we will need, might need and have to have. We have hit every marine supply store we could find and a giant provisioning day at Costco. Plan as we may, things often go awry and yet they always work out. The boys are getting a good lesson at watching their parents learn how to deal with things when they don't go the way they want.
Some of the best stories of the trip will always be the little encounters with generous spirits. The man in Oceanside who upon seeing the surf boards on the boat and meeting us, took it upon himself to run to the nearest surf shop, buy an amazing map of Mexico, have it laminated and delivered it to us. We met a guy in a dive shop who is originally from Seabeck. The next day when we realized an underwater light we purchased there was broken, they drove out to meet us as the dock and replace it since we no longer had a rental car.
We took it easy on the weekend. Tried to find places to store all the goodies on the boat. Cleaned house and spent some good time playing soccer in a nearby park. We enjoyed walking all over Coronado Island and of course never turned down the chance for a chocolate milk shake. Today we pulled up anchor early and headed back for the Harbor Office knowing that we had a good chance to get a slip on the dock. Once our space opened up we snugged ourself into the slip and ran back into town to tie up some loose ends.
Next came Halloween. We left our options open since we did not know exactly where we would be and the boys were beginning to get a bit worried. Tristan decided to celebrate each holiday with a quick climb up the mast and then we got creative quick. We put together the two headed crew member costume and Tristan and Matthew hit the docks to deliver treats this year. We were not sure that dock mates would be prepared, let alone aware that tonight was Halloween and thus have goodies to give so we decided it was time for them to receive. We scrounged up some goodies and went boat to boat. People were so surprised and we had a great time. Generously, each boat we visited dug deep and found something creative to donate to our goodie bag. When we got back to the boat it was a little different when we counted the loot; 2 cans of diet cherry cola, cliff bars, sugar free chocolate bars, some Twix and a box of Red Vines. Certainly a unique holiday for us. They boys had a fantastic time, we met some new acquaintances and delivered some much needed cheer.
One more day of provisioning and preparation and we felt ready to go. We celebrated Tristan's birthday with some new friends. Mexican food for lunch and dinner and chocolate cake. Who could ask for more! We had every intention of departing for Mexico within the next day or two but some marvelous and unexpected connections slowed us down. A couple from Bainbridge Island were staying in a nearby hotel when they saw our port name. Long story short, they offered us a key to their hotel to use the pool whenever we wanted. Very kind. They hope to purchase a boat and cruise in the near future.
While at the pool we met a family, originally from Austria, who have lived aboard their boat here in San Diego for two years now. You can get their whole story on the Schmit family web site www.lawur.com. (My favorite boat name yet pronounced "law vur", meaning bathtub in german I believe.) They have two boys, each a year younger than ours, and we have all been thoroughly enjoying each others company and friendships. Eager to swap stories and encouragement they convinced us to stay a little longer and we may yet convince them to leave the dock a little early. They hope to depart at the end of the month and will be celebrating their bon voyage party this Saturday. Thus we decided that's what this cruising is all about, Creating these relationships and experiencing life as it comes to you.
It looks as though we will attempt our departure Sunday. We will keep you posted.
love lisa and the boys