The Kingdom of Tonga

Neiafu, Tonga coordinates 18 35.179S,173 59.098W

October 2, 2006

The saying is that "The day starts in Tonga". Though elsewhere in the world the international date line sits at 180 degrees longitude, it cuts back in somewhere around 173W and includes Tonga among other islands as the start of the clock on each new day as we know it. When we crossed it we jumped ahead in time which now puts all of our west coast friends 20 hours behind us. It takes a while to wrap your brain around it, don't worry. Matthew thought this was the greatest invention ever as it brought his birthday one step closer with no effort at all.

We have already spent a month in the Vavau Island group of Tonga and had to renew our visas. Clearing customs in itself could be an entire journal entry but suffice it to say that 4 large Tongan men, though friendly enough, can board your boat, eat a lot of cookies, drink a lot of coke and say almost nothing at all for one hour while you fill out 6 pages of redundant information.
It has been a fun filled month and full of interesting discoveries. Tonga is one of the final destinations that cruisers make before heading to New Zealand to hide for cyclone season. There are a total of 170+ islands (they keep growing new ones) divided up between 8 major groups. Many of which are uninhabited. Each island is very close and the water between them very calm with great wind which makes for some of the most beautiful flat water sailing we have seen since we left the Pacific Northwest. It also makes for a great place for reunions with other cruisers as we all explore the islands while waiting for the right "weather window" to make the dash to New Zealand in November. Our pals on Lawur have caught up to us and at the present date we have seen 30 kid boats come through the anchorage with at least 5 more on the way. The kids and the parents both love that.

Tonga is also largely a vacation destination for Kiwi's and a big chartering community meaning there are a lot of people renting boats and sailing around. A lot of boats period as we counted approximately 70 in the anchorage of Neiafu alone. Luckily with just a couple of hours sailing you can reach even the outer most islands and find some peace and quiet. In the Vavau group the main town of Neiafu has been transformed into cruiser mecca with plenty of little restaurants, a wonderful outdoor market and small shops for trinkets or provisioning. It is very convenient, maybe too much so as we keep finding ourselves here a day longer than we expect and spending more money than we certainly need.

The most interesting bit of information from Tonga, the last remaining true "Kingdom" experienced the death of their current King on September 11th. He had been ill for quite some time and receiving medical care and life support in New Zealand. Upon his death the Kingdom of Tonga went into mourning and respectfully are restricted to wearing black for one month and no loud music or celebrations are aloud. We haven't felt the impact of it much beyond that. One of his brothers will take over the throne next.

Outside of the main town is the real fun and best discoveries. We have covered a lot of ground and done quite a bit so I will try to break it down simply. This week I will write about the Western anchorage and events first and cover the Eastern ones next time.

Vakaeitu 18 43,251S,174 06.016W
As soon as we got settled into the town of Neiafu we quickly heard that there was a Full Moon Party to be hosted by the local Aquarium Cafe run by Native Californians Ben and Lisa. Great for internet service, yummy snacks, go-cart rides about the island and always great company. They are amazingly efficient and friendly. In honor of the full moon they hosted a great big party/BBQ complete with DJ music for dancing and a bouncy room for the kids. In the well protected anchorage we found a great stretch of beach for hosting potluck parties each night with all our friends and of course celebrated Matthew's 8th birthday survivor style. With a couple dozen of our closest and or newest friends adults and children alike we divided up the tribes and competed with tug-of-wars, 3 legged crew races, and a coconut-stacle course. The kids even created their own fort out of palm leaves. Survivor Aitutake has nothing on us, which we hear is starting up just about now. Many cruisers tried to catch a glimpse of this Cook Island as they passed through this year. A delicious and amazing tug boat cake was provided by Diana on White Swan complete with dried mango cut into the shapes of sea creatures and a blue white frosting ocean. Spectacular!

Blue Lagoon 18 42.696S,174 59.339W
A beautiful anchorage on the west side of the Vavau Islands. A day of snorkeling and a great trip to Mariner's Cave. Mariner's Cave is special in that you have to dive about 5 feet under water and travel about 12 - 15 feet forward to arrive into a cave hidden inside. A little daunting at first but not too difficult, everyone made it in to enjoy the view. The pressure of the swell creates a bit of pressure on the ears and a misty fog cloud appears with each surge.
until next time,
Lisa and the boys