La Paz

Friday December 15, 2005 LOCATION: en route to La Paz
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 24 18.118N,110 09.761W

It took us a week to make it around the horn and we are now under way to La Paz. After leaving Cabo San Lucas last Saturday we snuck around the corner and anchored for a night in Las Palmillas. It was terribly windy but still less rolly than Cabo was. The next day we motored against some stiff wind and beat our way up to Los Frailes. There we were greeted by about 18 other cruisers who had done the same thing and were now holed up there to wait for a better time to head north to La Paz or south to the mainland. Tucked in this bay the winds don't bother you as much, so for the next four days we enjoyed our stay with all this company. Alcyone, the 60 ft. schooner at waterline 80 ft. stem to stern, from Port Townsend with two families aboard provided most of the toys. We played volleyball a lot. A few local young men from town came by to challenge our rag tag team and though we didn't actually win any matches against them, I can say we defended USA well in our matches against Mexico. It was always a close game. Bruce even got to try his hand again at some wind surfing. Alcyone also had some of that gear to share. There was no surfing here but we did have a great day of snorkeling with the boys. The water was a bit more murky than Cabo but we were still able to see a ton of wild life swimming around. It is amazing to realize that just under the surface and no farther than a few feet from shore the adventure begins. Some of our favorites are the unmistakable Guinea fowl Puffer and various Wrasse's with their colorful heads. You can feel the water beginning to cool again as we head further north. We got spoiled with 77 degrees in Cabo and 74 here with a bit of wind chilled us quickly. There is also the fun and fascinating pastime of watching little sting rays come leaping out of the water, flapping their wings as though they could actually take flight.
We spent a nice dinner with Alcyone aboard their boat one night, while another cruiser graciously offered their boat as Christmas movie night complete with popcorn, brownies and soda for all the children in the anchorage. Everyone had a great time. A second night we joined a couple other boats for a walk into town to have dinner at a restaurant they had found. How they found it I will never know. We walked maybe a mile inland and followed a dirt road past a small hotel, turn right at the cow, follow the dirt road past tall shrubs, past a few more cows only to have Pablo, the cook, drive past us going in the opposite direction yet promising to return. When he did return, it was with his newly bandaged thumb held high. It was from an earlier ice chopping accident. Bandaged but cheerful, he did cook us a wonderful dinner and then loaded all 11 of us up in the back of his pickup and insisted he drive us back to the beach so that we didn't have to walk past any scorpions or rattle snakes. It was a fun adventure to say the least. We are certainly not doing without where food is concerned. The local produce truck came by as scheduled on Tuesday and set up camp at the base of a campground full of trailers and motor homes. What a spread. You could find everything you needed including fresh homemade tamales which we enjoyed for lunch. We missed the bread truck that comes on Wednesdays. We hear he provides yummy apple turnovers, not that we needed any more goodies.
As life goes on the boat, all is well. There are still the occasional maintenance and repair issues to attend to. Some poor critter made it's way up the intake valve of the aft head and smells as though it has long since decayed. We have found some new canvas repairs that need to be attended to on the biminy. Without the nearby hardware stores the priorities or abilities to fix things change. As the term learning curve implies, there never is an end to the discoveries we make on Ohana Kai. We have finally discovered that the way the boat was wired, if the refrigerator is cycling it can interfere with your ability to talk on the VHF radio. Likewise, if the freezer is cycling, your transmissions will be hampered on the single side band. Just now we discovered that the autopilot provides this infernal screeching sound in the Ham radio as well. We have this whole new system of which buttons to push and un-push in order to listen or speak to anyone. Best of all, we are finally able to make contact with our friends on Lawur as they are making their way down Baja in hopes to begin their own journeys and catch up with us in La Paz for Christmas.
Yesterday it looked as though the reported lessening winds were true so we made a break around the bend and spent the night in Muertos. Up early this morning and we are on our way to La Paz. We will look to get a slip and maybe give this baby a much needed bath on the dock. That is one routine that goes right out the window when you are off the dock. We occasionally give the boat a salt water bath to knock off the larger layers of salt that stack up when we do passages.
until next time,
love lisa and the boys

Cabo San Lucas

Friday December 9, 2005 LOCATION: Cabo San Lucas
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 22 52.916N,109 54.309W

Last Monday we tucked into Bahia Santa Maria with the sunrise. Absolutely beautiful. Although we didn't get to see them up close, just after we anchored out in the ocean we could see what we think were giant grey whales breaching and spy hopping. The size of the splash that we could see from miles away was enormous. We could only imagine what a sight it must have been if we were up close. This anchorage was populated with a good number of Canadian boats. This is just helping to firm up my theory on the migration patterns of cruisers. Let me expand on this. We noticed when we pulled into San Diego that the majority of the population of boats entering the Baja race, that leaves the 1st of November for Mexico, are mostly Californians. Ready to leave their world behind for the much sunnier and warmer destinations of mainland Mexico. Pacific North westerners are so happy by the time they reach the mildly warmer weather of San Diego and shed their fleece are quite content to take their time and ease into the new climate. Bringing up the rear are the Canadian friends who flock in groups it seems and linger a little longer than most. We are all happy to slowly inch our way down the Baja coast and slide into this new found warmth. Again this has just been my observation.
Bahia Santa Maria turned out to be a nice surprise in itself. We ran into "Float On", the 3 kids Danielle, Steve and Garrett, from Canada who had their boat run into earlier. They turned us on to a wonderful hike that crosses through the peaks and valleys of the local point and provides a beautiful sight of blooming cactus and local plants, bee hives, sea shells and a breathtaking view of an equally breathtaking shoreline. On the far side of the point, these dedicated surfers, Bruce included, hiked their boards over hill and dale to catch some nice breaks just before sunset. Once back on the boat you are often greeted by lobster fishermen eager to trade you t-shirts and batteries for their catch. We declined this time as we had our own fish to fry. I can gladly say that mom was triumphant this time and served up some delicious tuna, which much to their surprise everyone enjoyed. Score one for mama.
From Bahia Santa Maria we headed directly to Cabo San Lucas. Knowing that it is a growing vacation destination and cruise line port still did not prepare us for what we saw when we arrived. Rising out of the rocks and cliffs before you even turn the corner into the bay are enormous, beautiful homes, hotels, etc. As you enter the bay, which itself I have to say is not all that big, you are engulfed in a mass of activity in the water. It is a constant swarm of water taxis and glass bottom boats, jet skis with people who have obviously never been on one before, kayakers with a death wish, parasailing boats with parasailers in tow, a few sail boats and then the ever present cruise ships. It wasn't quite overwhelming yet, but certainly exciting and you had to keep your eyes open. The scenery itself is wondrous with large outcrops of rocks, arches and spires.
The water was crystal clear, so as soon as we refueled, dropped off our garbage and anchored in 20 ft. of water, Bruce and Matthew were leaping off the edge of the boat into 75 degree water to swim around. Swimming VERY close to the boat because as I mentioned all that boat traffic around waits for no one and follows no set path or rules. We had set out a bouy to mark our stern anchor and I believe they thought it was a slolom marker. We went ashore, got a lay of the land and quickly met some of our cruising neighbors. "SeaFire" from Blaine, WA, "Alcyon" a beautiful old schooner from Port Townsend, whom we have seen in many anchorages starting in Ensenada but not yet had the chance to meet and "Capaz", from Portland Oregon also with two boys on board.
We filled a Wednesday and Thursday with errands, found Costco and felt like we were home. We attempted to get a few more boat pieces and parts but the prices were much to high. We even splurged to have our laundry done for us. Our nights were filled with sitting on the beach with our new acquaintances, watching the skydivers land on the beach and eating tacos at a local palapa. Couldn't ask for more. It was really the first time in a long time that we felt as though we were on a vacation. At least a quick break anyway. The beaches were very steep to skim boarding was difficult but playing in the waves was great. The sand itself was very different from anything we had seen yet. A pristine yellow, coarse sand that follows you everywhere but pretty easy to clean up as you dry so quickly.
We saved Friday morning for snorkeling with the boys. Matthew could hardly wait for the dinghy to stop moving before he donned his gear and leapt overboard. It was so much fun to hear his squeals of joy and laughter through his snorkel as he discovered all the fish below him. Bruce and Tristan were close behind and yelling back to me all of their discoveries. Before I could get my own gear on and jump in their squeals of joy turned a little more serious as they all hopped back into the dinghy realizing that they were getting tiny zaps from something we discovered to be masses of little jellyfish. We moved the dinghy around to a spot with a bit clearer water and tried again. We found needle fish(garfish), "Gill" from Nemo a Moorish Idol, some parrot fish, a puffer fish and hosts of others we have yet learned to identify. We cannot wait for the next chance to snorkel again in calmer waters.
Today, Saturday, we are departing Cabo San Lucas and beginning the journey around to the Sea of Cortez. We will likely make a few stops along the way in Los Palmillas and Los Frailles before making a big leap up to La Paz and it's neighboring islands. Alcyon will be there the same time and need some more players for an ongoing beach volleyball game.
We have gotten our advent chain put together to help count down the days to Christmas. We play Christmas music constantly but the warm water and constant sunshine make it a little hard to buy. On each chain link we have written one word that reminds us of Christmas and we try to find an activity that day to correlate. Such activities will include cutting snowflakes, making Christmas cookies or creating our own stockings. We know Santa loves cruisers too. Once we anchor in La Paz we may hunt for a Christmas tree but until then we have modified it to an origami tree, angels, snowman, santa and sleigh including reindeer.

until next time,
love lisa and the boys

coordinate corrections ...again

Tuesday December 6,2005
Google Earth coordinates 24 46.068N,112 15.319W Location: Bahia Santa Maria
My apologies, writing at 3am may not be my best hour to work at and once again I have forgotten to update the coordinates. I should start having my editor proof read my work before I am allowed to submit it. That would certainly get rid of some of those silly typos as well.
Lisa

San Juanico to Bahia Santa Maria

Monday December 5, 2005 LOCATION: San Juanico to Bahia Santa Maria
GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES: 27 07.738N,114 17.478W

As we had anticipated it was very tough to leave Asuncion Bay last Sunday and our new friends there. It is exciting to think of the fact that all these new connections are really just the beginning not the end. We had a one more great adventure there the Saturday before we left in a nearby by area called the Valley of the Goats. It is an area known for fossil hunting and we were not disappointed. Together we found everything from crystals to petrified bones, coral and even a couple of shark teeth. Very hot, dry desert location with large mesas, cactus and tarantulas to prove it.
Sunday and Monday we hunkered down in Abreojos. They had forecasted strong winds to be coming down the Baja Peninsula and they weren't kidding. We had sustained winds of 25 - 35 knots for nearly those whole 2 days. It makes for a quick and tricky anchoring job but other than that it is all about laying low and rolling around in the swells. The town itself looked like a large beige cloud from all the dust that is continually blown off the land. By the time we left every inch of the boat was covered in a good 1/4" layer of grit. Trying to sleep becomes rather comical as you lay there stuck out like a 5 point star fish trying not to slide around in bed. You get really good at judging just how big of a swell is going to slide your drink off the table as well. It was a bit like a cartoon, where it slides away from you and it slides back in time to catch before going over the edge. At the first chance we dodged out of there in hopes for a bit calmer weather in the next hold. A great call on our part.
San Juanico was our next anchorage. Plenty of sun and best of all NO WIND in the anchorage. We pulled in to find only one other boat anchored there. They were from Canada and on their way to Nicaragua when they were slightly delayed by a pang, which is the name for a fishing boat. Early one morning the fisherman's view was obstructed by his lobster pots and they ran head long into the port side stern of this boat. Had one of the crew not just left his bunk he would have been severely injured if not killed. The panga broke clear through their hull just above the water line. Long story short, they have become quite infamous as the entire shore could hear the event happen. They spent the week doing fiberglass repairs and were on their way.
We on the other had spent a glorious 5 days there playing on their long beaches and LONG rolling breaks. Perfect for the boys and I to practice our surfing. We spent each morning doing school work and each afternoon playing and exploring. World known for its great breaks we enjoyed each minute. It was yet another new world of sea shells and creatures. Miniscule, small green worms that would carve out little squiggles in the sand, hermit crabs of every shape and size and other inhabited snails that would drag themselves around on top of the sand. The occasional live sand dollar could be found along with sting rays in the water and another surfer found a small octopus. Operculums are the hard disc that univalves (snails) use to close up their shell when frightened could be found by the hundreds. The boys also had a great time fishing off the boat. They could hardly set their bare hooks down in the water without catching them. I haven't the foggiest idea what they were though.
The town has a much larger "gringo" population than we had seen in other towns so far as evidence by "gringo hill". Many homes are retirement spots for people who come to stay 4 months or so out of the year. Friday we walked the town and had lunch at a great restaurant named Snakes. We met the owner Chris and his family who had relocating from Hood River Oregon and loving every minute of it. Saturday we walked the other end of the town down by the point and found the palapas that you can rent for a great price. We were treated to the sounds of fantastic Mariachi music nearly the entire stay as a wedding had taken place that Thursday night and the played around the clock for the next 3 days. I kid you not. It was a very special wedding we hear.
Today we left out with just a little wind to push us along. Knowing we were going overnight we are not in any big hurry. We through out the big fishing line to see if we could catch something other than a skip jack and were pleasantly surprised. We caught a couple beautiful little Yellow fin Tuna and a Bonito right off the back. We let each one go and decided the next tuna we got, if decent size we would keep and try our hands at our fist wild fish of the trip. I will think twice next time. First we were all down below practicing our plotting of courses by hand (Tristan is a pro). Both he and I hear a strange sound and by the time we snap our heads around to figure it out we see the pole bend deep, the line play out and snap - it's gone. We are not sure what it was but we are assuming it was a pretty nice size as we have not had this problem before. We hunt to discover that was our only reel of significant weight line and opt for our next biggest reel. We play it out, have another strong hit and carefully reel in a very decent size tuna again. Unfortunately, my eldest son was now thinking better of having to kill the poor innocent creature and there was a moment of indecision. Mom of course had to be the villain - off with his head, all in the name of a great new experience. We fillet the beauty and saved him for another day. The killing was enough trauma for one day, we will save the feasting for another. Tristan did decide that if we knew it tasted like pizza then it would be much easier task.
It is currently 4:00 am and we are a few hours out yet from Bahia Santa Maria. It is quiet and peaceful and the only traffic I see is an occasional cruise ship off in the distance. Our destination is a small bay located outside a larger well known stop on the lower half of Baja known as Magdalena Bay. We will most likely not go into Mag Bay but stay outside and take a quick break before we head down to Cabo San Lucas. It will take another good overnight trek to make it there where we will have the chance to refuel and provision again. I must say it feels like true cruising now. We have been off the docks for over three weeks and have done a few small essential loads of laundry by hand. Made tortillas and baked goods when necessary. Learned the art of the sparse showers off the back of the boat. We are starting to create some decorations for Christmas and see what new version of the old traditions we will put together this year.
until next time, nos vemos
love lisa and the boys