More time in Makemo
Friday 5/27 One afternoon, the Kelly's were aboard their vessel Moorea when a local fisherman named Victor happened by. This was just the beginning of our wonderful encounters with him. On his boat was his daily catch of 16 or so large Dorado's. He graciously gave the smallest one to the Kelly's, which was so small that after they divided it up between three boats there were still leftovers. Potluck dinner for everyone. Yum. That evening was also our first meeting with Beco and Jaqueline Kamake, a generous and gracious local family. Ryan from Capaz had somehow come across the only man in the islands who carves pearls. We watched in awe that night on his front porch as he, no small man himself, whittled away at his craft with such ease on these tiny creations and amongst any distractions.
Saturday 5/27 New Dawn and Nereid arrive. After a morning of school for us, we took the crews to meet Beco and Jaqueline and began our haggling and trading for the much desired treasures. It is hard to describe their beauty except to say that he can take fairly ordinary black pearls and carve in with great fine detail any motif be it a border of Marquesan crosses, lizards, sharks, dorados, dolphins, mantas, you name it. In addition he makes tikis out of bone, bone fishhooks necklaces, mother of pearl everything; it is endless and all breathtaking. The men all went fishing with Victor that day as well in hopes of spearing some more dorado. They end up line fish for bonito and learn that flat water and no waves is no good to for spear fishing dorado. It is also then that we learn that Victor is one of Beco's 7 older brothers. Small world and even smaller island.
Sunday 5/28 Mother's Day in Tuamotu. The church's itself was one of the first tall buildings we had seen in months. On islands that don't stand any taller than the largest palm tree a site like this is surprising. Inside the ceiling was like one elongated cupola which you could tell instantly
would bring out some resounding voices. The chandeliers and decorations were all strings upon strings of sea shells. It is something that the Poumotu people do well, utilize their resources. The service itself was a treat and true to form, the singing magnificent. They separated out the teen age boys and placed them high up in the choir seats. There were 3-4 choir directors who each stood for their songs. When the time came to harmonize men from women, the base of their sounds resonated. There is an amazing amount of joy and pride that is carried in those notes. It brought tears to my to eyes to share in their morning and to feel almost a member of community as we all held hands and greeted with kisses instead of handshakes.
Monday 5/29 Dad is getting some surfing in and meeting the locals. We now have the hang of the local handshake and are pretty well known around town. After being one of only a few boats in the anchorage originally it is starting to fill. There are more boats in than most locals have seen before and they are coming to the shore to look at us. I believe 12 was the final count. Today is Julie's birthday on Capaz so we divided up the adults. They boys had poker night and per her request, scrabble for the girls with lemon squares and pineapple upside-down cake.
Tuesday 5/30 One of a few rainy days that roll around. We enjoyed the down time after school and settled in for movies and popcorn.
Wednesday 5/31 We finally take Bruce to meet Beco, his beautiful family and see his marvelous work. Matthew and Tristan get in close with the kids and have a great time. Jaqueline, who speaks English very well, helps us to make our deals and trades for our goods. We offer goodies like head lamps and binoculars but the real winner is a bottle of tequila. The carved pearls we understand cost $50 here but much, much more in Papeete. It is not uncommon for the islands to call and place orders for 50 or so to be sent on the next ship. Beco is a busy man. It is here that she explains to us much of the family history as the island is dotted with each of their
families. The largest house on the island is owned by his brother who is the pearl farmer. Pearl farming looks like good business. They graciously deck us out in shell necklaces and hats for the crew of Nereid. We feel so honored.
Thursday 6/1 We make our final visit to Beco to pick up our tikis and pearls. Jaqueline sits us down while we wait and shares more family history with us. One of 7 children herself there is a lot of family history. Where each sibling lives, what they do for a living, their childhood photo albums, how they met, etc. etc. It was such a treat. She brought out many family photos including one of Beco's mother and father Mr. & Mrs. William Harris, an amazingly handsome couple. Though I believe his mother was from the islands I believe his fathers ancestors were partly from the United States. We got to share in viewing their wedding photos and dress. All of a sudden she disappeared and when she reappeared we realized she had run to the store to buy soda and chips. We felt terrible to impose like this because to us this was no small expense. It is a great deliberation before we ever purchase the $6 bottle of soda and $8 bag of chips. I think the prices are all relative to them. Kindness of strangers. Lastly they shared photos of their vacations and travel plans with us. Each year they go to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) and I think a trade show of sorts New Zealand. Maybe we will see them there next February or March. I am still unsure what she was describing when she lifted up my shirt to point at my belly button and
motioned that Rapa Nui is the naval of Polynesia. The lifeline, the origins? We hope to visit there some day too.
Finally we make it back to our boats and with the Kelly's and decide to leave the anchorage late or not. It has been a wonderful time here but it is time to cut the ties and move on. It is important to move through in and through the islands when the sun is high or behind you so as to see the coral heads more easily. Due to our late departure we make it 4 miles before sun is to far set and consider it unsafe. It was far enough for us and we feel a million miles away. We set anchor, invited the Kelly's over for an evening of pasta dinner and card games all night. Bright stars, perfect weather, who could ask for more.
Friday 6/2 we are up early with sun at our backs, Tristan is back up the mast, mom at the bow sighting submerged buoys and reefs. We find Capaz in a little paradise of lush green palms and white sand beach. Tucked behind a long thin reef and occasionally baby black tip sharks. We headed to shore for a round of Bacci ball and hermit crab races. Matthew's blazer wins hands down first round. Tod's wins the second round. Kelly boy's takes second both times despite handicap of missing one leg. Kelly girls and mine never wake up at the starting line but as the race ends, pick up shells and head for home. Matthew finds Colonel blue, giant one and gently gets it out of its shell. We witnessed it's reattachment of its much too small and decrepit shell back on his hind quarters. Check off science lesson or zoology for the day.
We had one more anchorage to stop at before we exited Makemo Atoll. It took us a few days to cross it and one to get out before heading to our next destination of the uninhabited atoll of Tahanea.
Until next time,
Lisa and the boys
TheMartins on Ohana Kai
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